Istanbul and Izmir

Istanbul

After a long flight from Johannesburg to Istanbul, we were jet lagged and exhausted. We slept for the majority of our first day there! Afterwards, we walked around and realized our Airbnb was in a fantastic location–within walking distance of the Sultan Ahmet Square, Hagia Sofia, and Blue Mosque, as well as a little bakery and good restaurants on our street.

Walking around the main square that houses the touristy spots, carpet salesmen line the streets asking “where are you from,” “you look like you’re from California,” etc. They invited us in for tea and discussion. We are always open to having some tea and discussion but we weren’t interested in buying any carpets because a) they dont fit in our backpacks and b) we already have lots of Turkish rugs from when my parents lived in Turkey.

Another thing we noticed during our walks were all the dogs and cats on the streets. It was different from SE Asia though because it felt as if the dogs and cats were part of the neighborhood. In fact, we saw several cat food dishes which seemed to be available to all comers.

As numerous as the cats and dogs were the food vendor carts selling sesame bagels, salep, and lots of corn outnumbered them.

Ever since I learned about the Hagia Sophia, and its unique history as a worship place for Christians and Muslims, in school, I’ve wanted to visit it. As we expected, it was magnificent. The mosaics and light fixtures were particularly enchanting.

Afterwards, we went to the Blue Mosque which was, quite honestly, disappointing. Covered in scaffolding, we couldn’t see much of what it’s known for. Inside, it was busy and crowded.

On another day, we took a commuter ferry down the Bosphorus Strait–where East (Asia) meets West (Europe)–toward the Black Sea. After lunch, we walked up the hill to an old fortress which had been overseeing this historic waterway for generations. On our way back to the ferry, H was hungry again (as usual) so we picked up a sandwich (pictured below) and K made friends with a cat. No matter how much we tell her not to pet them, she can’t help herself. As H ate his sandwich, he was followed around by the local dogs until it was gone.

We visited the colorful spice market which was full of candy, spices, tea, tea sets, Turkish flags, and chatty shopkeepers. We could’ve stayed for hours.

The Basilica Cistern is the largest of several hundred underground cisterns in Istanbul. The damp, dark walkways weaving through the cistern lead you to two ominous stone Medusa heads. It was full of tourists while we were there, but still a really cool stop.

We made a spur of the moment stop at Topkapi Palace where we learned there were thousands of workers in the kitchen when the palace was in use. All the kitchen utensils, weapons, and clocks were extravagantly bedazzled.

Mom and I went to a traditional hammam with entirely marble and tile surfaces including a huge domed ceiling, hot room, pillars, and benches.  Afterwards we both felt soft, clean, and relaxed. It’s an experience I’ll always remember.

Izmir

Izmir was a must see as it is where my mom lived for two years as a child. It was her family’s favorite place they lived when my grandfather was stationed there through the military. We stayed in the Konak area which was a beautiful area on the water with lots of shops and restaurants. Our Airbnb was surrounded by a pedestrian-only zone which was really nice.

We had a special reunion dinner and coffee one day with my mom’s old neighbors, and with her friends for chai and delicious desserts (pictured below) the next. We had a fantastic time catching up, learning a little bit of Turkish and finally meeting these families who we’ve heard so much about! We also found my mom’s old house, which is now a school, which brought back a lot of memories for her.

One of the best haircuts I have ever had was at a salon just a few doors down from our apartment. The best part of the haircut was that I didn’t speak enough Turkish and the worker didn’t speak any English. So, through sign language and another customer who helped me out with communication, all was well! I’ve only gotten a trim a few times on this trip. Unlike me, my dad gets his hair cut quite frequently. It’s very interesting hearing his different experiences in a barber chair all around the world. (Check out the link to see what I’m talking about!)

I, the designated 360Holliday photographer, was home sick during the remainder of our stay in Izmir so there are very few photos from our time here. Because of this, I’m going to hand over the rest of this post to Dad.

No trip to the Izmir region is complete without a visit to Ephesus. We first visited the house where Mary, Mother of Jesus, lived her last years. This ancient house and surrounding area is a testament to the spiritual unity of all peoples as people of all faiths come here to pay homage to Mary. 

The ruins of Ephesus were amazing to behold. To walk the streets and on the steps that were in place during the time of Jesus, marble smoothed from centuries of wear, is awe-inspiring. Most notable are the structures and ‘neighborhoods’ still in place – the government center, communal toilet, houses, baths, theater, and marketplace.

We had an incredibly knowledgeable and personable tour guide who taught us how deliberate and intentional the city was constructed and intertwined – with multiple use and efficiency in mind. For instance the Roman baths and communal toilets were connected, the heat of the baths warmed the communal toilet room. We had a chuckle when we learned how important the communal toilets were to sharing the news of the day, and that citizens went out of their way to reserve the right seat at the right time (usually by having a slave sit there to warm it up). A fountain was in the middle of the room and sometimes visitors were accompanied by a set of musicians, who were, no doubt, there to help set the mood. 

After experiencing Turkey, and especially Turkish food and hospitality, I’m happy to discover and realize that so many cities around the world have a Turkish kebab shop! I can’t wait to return to this wonderful country.

Next up — a short stop in Athens, Greece!